Leh to Delhi via Manali - DAY 1

Preamble: The previous day we were trying to get people to share a jeep to Manali but no one seems to be leaving on the same day as us. We bumped into our first Canadian tourist, Jurgan along with his German friend, Wolfgang (who's been in Calcutta managing an orphanage). They have heard that there is a bridge out in one of the valleys somewhere. They are looking of sharing a jeep through the only other alternate route through Srinigar, Kashmir. I didn't like the sounds of that as there are frequent Muslim militants sabotaging/bombing military convoys. I checked availability on the "semi-deluxe" tourist bus. Only the back row is available. I warn Steph . . . any bumps will be hugely amplified being 8 feet back from the back axle.
0400: Wake up. Stumble up the pitch dark streets with our heavy packs to the Main Bazaar (Leh seems to have only power for a couple of hours in the morning and evening) The local pack of dogs had done their early morning ravaging through restaurant garbage.
0430: Load up the ruck sacks in the back of the bus. Bus driver wants R10 for each bag. We all refuse.
0500: Planned departure time. Waiting still.
0530: Depart. Seating arrangement in the back row: Steph, Ian, Jurgan, Wolfgang, a Nepalese guy strangely in a very nice suit.
0630: Dawn
0700: Random stop. Breakfast.
1100: Taglang La Pass (Elev. 5328m). No trees or shrubs grow at this elevation to hide behind for one's bathroom break. Only the occasional small rock.
1300: The More Plateau. The regular teeth rattling ride is now highlighted with extreme bumps that send all of us flying and hitting our heads on the ceiling 16" above (several times). We seem, with experience, have developed our own bracing stance in anticipation of the next rough patch. (The entire journey is so bumpy, you can't sleep, read, or drink without spilling. The map is read only at pitstops).
1500: Lachalung La Pass (Elev. 5065m) followed soon after by Nuchli La (Elev. 5020). We're still in Ladakh so the landscape is still the barren beauty we are use to. We descend down the Gata Loops. It has to be fairly significant switchbacks to get its own name on the map! There had to be at least 30 switchbacks.
1700: Baralacha La (Elev. 4980m). Sun setting. Beautiful snow capped mountains in the distance.
1930: traveling through the pitch dark. Not even the moon to provide light. All you see is the distance is the occasional bus light reflecting off of the mountain slope and the absolute black abyss into the unknown deep valleys below (Note: there are no guardrails and the tires are typically a couple of feet from the edge, even closer when a vehicle is coming up the opposite direction). Arrive in Darcha.
2000: Fight with bus driver that we should continue to Keylong where there are actually hotels. German tourists want a democratic vote. I told him wishful thinking. It's only a dictatorship and that the driver is the dictator. Driver disappears.
2030: Steph cries at the Dhaba (Indian style truck stop) where we eat our rice and dal and end up sleeping on the beds. I try and add a positive note that we are saving big time! Our beds in the sheet metal shack cost R40 (CAN$1.15) each.